Another day, 5 years later

A beloved neighborhood bakery in New Orleans posted a beautiful piece today on their experience trying to save their business as COVID became the reality for us all. (It’s Bywater Bakery; if you are ever in our city, do yourself a favor and check it out. And read Chaya’s beautiful piece on their FB page.)

It sent me down the same path of memory, although before I read that this morning, I did have to test for the virus once again. I heard from a friend who has miraculously escaped from contracting it over the previous years and finally got it last week, and after traveling 1200 miles across 6 states, I felt a little under the weather and decided to see if I was positive for the virus. This time, I was not, but like her, I also still expect my first positive test at some point….

I remember well the early news stories about the virus, especially as New Orleans had just had a huge Mardi Gras celebration even with the early reports of this virus. (One may remember that the federal response was not clear nor robust.) During MG, I had been on the streets with friends and strangers, but less than some others. That was partly because I had also been very sick with similar symptoms over the holidays, and a pal who was a nurse suggested during Carnival that maybe I was an early victim and asked me to test for it. Although negative, she warned me to be extra careful even in those early days and so I heeded her advice.

I was also extremely lucky to already have a remote job at FMC, and so was inside on my own a lot of the time.

So I spent loads of time on news sites from the beginning, and in reading markets updates and answering emails from leaders, and so I have a unique vantage point to the magnificent way that markets handled this crisis.

I will share that I remember that year mostly in a fog from exhaustion not only because (like so many of you) I worked every day until finally taking a day off in late November, but also because my elderly mother became gravely ill with an infection and had to be hospitalized for 3 months that summer. I’d rise early, attend to emails and FMC business, and then I’d head to her house to feed her cats and then to calls with doctors and caregivers and trying to unpack the medical tangle in conference with my sister who was a thousand miles away, and thankfully a master at deciphering medical and legal technical information. After that, I’d be back to the laptop to do more with markets and local leaders and national partners into late into the night.

I tell you that not to gain sympathy for what was a very typical situation thousands of families had to face, but to share the regular pride and jubilation I felt first thing and then at the end of the day on hearing how state associations and markets were winning the bureaucracy battles, how they made sure to include MORE vendors and MORE initiatives in their makeshift drive through, or one-way, or timed entry markets (remember those words??) and how I had an inkling as to how exhausted everyone was*.

But as a result of that incredible pivot (another word to remember!) during the worldwide emergency, markets gained a lot of respect and trust from some who may have only ever watched us with one eyebrow raised, or without any idea of why we showed up rain or shine, week in and week out.

FMC was asked to join a multi-year, multi sector USDA initiative to catalogue the innovation and challenges of this emergency response. I tell you all, that to a person, every leader congratulated us on how well U.S. markets responded, and noted their brilliant design changes and deep care to make sure that no one was left out. We accepted that on behalf of you all, and did our best to transmit it back to the thousands of leaders doing the actual work.

Here is the link to the hundreds of resources gathered and created to tell the story of local food systems response: https://lfscovid.localfoodeconomics.com/

This is important to remember not only because of this anniversary of COVID, but also because we find ourselves in another national crisis. This time, millions of dollars in funding promised or already underway has been withdrawn with little or no information as to why it is gone or if it will return. Farmers and sector leaders find themselves with costs incurred, promises made, and carefully made plans, now out on their own.

So just as before, I know market leaders will pivot, look for other sponsors or grants for their programs, rework their plans to make it without the promised funding, and ensure that week in and week out, the farmers and makers have a space to collect, share their talents, and make enough to come back another day. Coming back another day is a lot of the battle; the rest is how we treat ourselves and each other during all of the another days after that. I promise, just as during COVID, I’ll be here, doing my best to help but also being nourished by the community built by each of you and by all of you.

*As usual I want to firmly state how talk of “resilience” and resilient systems in that year or the next was very misguided. Resilience is later; what markets (and others did) did that year was pure survival, spending down every asset and bit of energy, hoping to refill it later on. Some were able to do that; others were not. Over the last 3 years, we saw and heard anecdotal reports of even greater staff turnover and many markets struggling to regain their pre-COVID energy. NOW is when to measure resiliency from that emergency; now is when you also note that the emergencies keep coming and formal responses are beginning to lessen, forcing individuals into permanent recovery mode.

Survey on federal grant delays and cancellations

This survey is for farmers market organizations with an active federal grant and will be used by FMC and its partners to understand the situation’s scope and to help us all respond. 

FMC will share what is learned from this survey on its list-serve and website.

https://forms.gle/dSfbgj9daJNRsbMF8

Thank you all for your incredible work to keep farmers markets thriving.

Chicago chooses farmers markets over brick and mortar

“Chicago officials revealed Tuesday they’re considering opening public markets across the city, pivoting from their 2023 concept of creating a single municipal-owned grocery store.”

The original report recommendation was for a proof-of-concept grocery store, possibly leading to 3 new stores, all owned by the city. Fascinating to see the analysts had suggested an annual subsidy of $130,000 would be necessary for just one store location.

The article credits the Food Equity Council for the change in direction from grocery store to farmers markets. Congratulations to these grassroots leaders.

There are many questions as to how this welcome change might be successfully undertaken, what type of market is best, and how to use properly use farmers markets to address food insecurity.

I certainly hope they avail themselves of the expertise in the national field of 4500+ entities that run the 9,000 or so farmers markets in the US.

STILL, it is a monumental and bold decision, and one that will benefit farmers and neighborhoods in the Midwest’s world-class city.

“We want this to be an example that we can set for other cities who are looking to do this type of food equity work, but ultimately, for the specifics of how many; and who’s going to own and operate; who’s going to pay? We haven’t worked that out yet,” the mayor’s office spokesperson said.”

https://chicago.suntimes.com/chicago/2025/02/12/chicago-plan-open-city-grocery-store-changed-favor-public-farmers-markets

* There is an unfortunate use of the apostrophe in the article, but one might assume they mean farmers markets even though they use the term farmer’s market (does that mean one farmer?) and public market interchangeably. Yes I’m being a bit snarky, but my pet peeve is the lack of a consistent style choice in writing these terms which makes it hard for the public to understand what we mean.

**The article also suggests that only 2 cities operate markets which is far from accurate. If they mean shed (public) markets, there are quite a few and if they mean open-air farmers markets, there are also likely hundreds managed by their municipality. That is based on information from PPS, from national surveys done by my employer Farmers Market Coalition, and through my consulting for projects that include markets managed by small and large towns and cities.

Safeguard your community

Farmers markets will become even more important in this chaotic time; consider how to make sure they continue.

Market day should be the priority. That doesn’t mean your programs are not vital (they are!) but if the market doesn’t open none of those can happen.

Some suggestions:

Confirm that your market space will continue to be available. That may be an issue if you only have a handshake agreement with an entity that may not be understand all that the market provides or in some cases, you may just be finding out they may be in opposition to some of the things markets provide. So check, get a signed agreement for a few seasons in place and look for a possible back up spot if needed.

Ensure your budget is not completely tied to federal grant programs. Some folks think that because they get money from a city or a state that it means it will continue, but those monies may originate from federal grants. Check. And start to look for local and regional foundations that support democratic civic activities. Put the word out on social and with your email list that your market has programs that need funding partners. If you haven’t yet partnered with like minded businesses as sponsors, consider this. Tent Talk has LOTS of episodes on partners and fundraising locally.

Revisit your budget to reduce spending anywhere you can. Make sure that the market day budget (meaning the costs for staffing and hosting the actual space) is finalized and separately managed from any other initiative or program budget.

Talk to your vendors. Find out what they are planning, what they are worried about for 2025. So far, it does seem that food producers will be in great demand; encourage them to talk to you about opportunities they are approached about and if you can, help them sort through those. I wish I could tell all of you to not get angry with vendors who pull out of markets (esp at the last minute) but I know we are human and that their absence could be a problem for your market; still I can tell you it won’t help and will make others less likely to tell you if they are getting offers.

If you are approachable, respectful and open to listening to their needs you may see some decide to stay because of that, and if nothing else, by being a good listener, you may know earlier. And because…empathy goes both ways.

Talk to your shoppers. See above.

Do more than use social media; revamp the newsletter, have a simple website, put flyers up, design kitchen magnets with website and phone number, give dedicated shoppers materials to hand out.

Be visible at market.

At market, let’s stay away from shame and blame, and focus on connection and inclusion.

FMC

As many of you have heard, your national market support entity, Farmers Market Coalition, the organization that I have been attached to for the last decade as a staff person, and a half decade before that as a market leader supporting its development, is rethinking its role and structure.

Part of that rethinking means the elected board made a recent decision to put all staff on temporary furlough for at least January 2025, leaving just our Interim Director working to catch up on invoicing and administrative changes.

As painful as it can be to be open about the issues we are dealing with, FMC needs to do what we urge markets to do, which is to be transparent about development plans and challenges.

I have heard from enough markets and network partners that they believe FMC is essential to the field, and vow to be patient for its journey to find the right admin and funding structure, all of which make the idea of being laid off a little less awful.

Still, pulling off a rework is a HUGE task. I hope we can. I do think we can.

While I am off work at FMC, I am focusing on the Market Eras article and then prospectus for a book.

Here is also my Substack about that process:

https://open.substack.com/pub/darlenewolnik/p/farmers-markets-have-i-found-the?r=20i3x&utm_medium=ios

Here is an earlier post about it:

https://darlenewolnik.com/2024/01/02/market-eras-part-1/

Expect to see more here about that and my own consulting for markets in the next few months but I promise to also share whatever FMC builds for its future when I am able to speak on its behalf again.

Charisse, (too) briefly.

https://farmersmarketcoalition.org/with-profound-sadness-we-announce-the-sudden-passing-of-fmc-executive-director-charisse-mcgill/

When Charisse was hired as FMC’s E.D. earlier this year, I was intrigued both by her background and her plan to take that big job on, AND to continue to oversee her wildly successful company Lokal Artisan Foods with its French Toast Bites brand. As someone who had also alternated between for-profit entrepreneurial work and community organizing, I was very excited to experience this type of energy from our new leader.

And what energy it was. Charisse never seemed to meet a situation in which she didn’t have the confidence to address, never lacked a joke or self deprecating aside to lessen any awkwardness, and always made sure that folks felt seen and heard, richly using their names and building a special communication with each person. I marveled at all of it. I told her so and hope that I told her so in a way that she accepted it.

She was a constant learner, which I knew had made already her kin among our market leaders, since that is the energy they also bring. I often told her that market managers were gonna love having someone like her in this role and I felt she knew exactly what I meant. Of course one of her first public outputs as our E.D. was establishing a new vendor fund because she had lived that concern, both as a PA market manager and as an entrepreneur.

I was grateful to see how much time she spent on the World FMC Academy calls, attending almost all of them (choosing the early am option of the 2 they offer, in order to make time for them before her long work day started), listening in and sending me dozens of questions and comments during and after those calls.

She jokingly reminded the FMC team on almost every call how recently she had arrived, sharing what day number she was on as FMC’s ED. (She began on June 20, so she was with us for one week shy of 7 months.)

I was humbled by her willingness to use her energy, her enormous social capital, and intellectual bank to assist FMC. To lead an overwhelmingly white staff and white culture to its hoped for future as a leader in the new anti-racist, entrepreneurial, and joyous food system for which farmers markets should lead.

I met her in person only twice, as it was normal for our staff to only meet up once or twice a year in our little remote-officed NGO with staff working at home from coast to coast to coast across the US. I was happy that our East Coast Deputy Director Willa had more face time with Charisse, as did our Philly-based admin/membership person, Meghan. It was great seeing that team begin to form. I was sorry for those staff who never had the pleasure to meet her in person.

I looked forward to seeing her much more in person in 2024.

I’m stunned at this loss.

Not only for FMC, but for her own community and family, and the loss of such promise.

I’m also angry with our world for not taking better care of black and brown (especially female) leaders. I take that indictment as my own future work as well, and promise to do better to support and honor these women.

Here’s to you, Charisse McGill. Rest In POWER.

Part of the FMc team: Willa, Meghan, me, Charisse and Bec in NYC in June at World FMC event

sustainableagriculture.net/blog/what-the-expiration-of-the-2018-farm-bill-means-for-food-and-agriculture/