I keep thinking about how to organize the country into useful regions for talking about farmers markets….
Any preferences? I know none are perfect but I’m gonna have to find something….

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I keep thinking about how to organize the country into useful regions for talking about farmers markets….
Any preferences? I know none are perfect but I’m gonna have to find something….

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It seemed a good time to return to the topic of retail anthropology, a topic for which I have presented to market organizations, have consulted on behalf of new and expanding markets, and have shared written analysis. It is something I have some experience with, as I designed and managed chains of retail stores in a previous life, and have also worked for 3 decades as a mystery shopper across the US.
As important as it is to be conscious of the work markets do as community gathering spaces, as farmer advocates and as partners to those programs that support a wide range of activities, it is equally important to consider its role as a retail space.
I subscribe to a few retail newsletters that offer analysis from high paid consultants and notice when they align with the retail of our open-air, collective model which has happened again recently.
A few trends that consultants are noting:
-chains are focusing on the “store experience” and in becoming “destination worthy”.
obviously this is something that many markets already do, and it may even be true that the market sector can lay claim to influencing grocery in this way. If you are seeing added seating in the alcove of your stores, better information centers, it may very well be that your market has had a hand in better shopping in your area. Feel free to pat yourself on the back in analysis you do on your impacts! And more importantly, don’t let grocery entirely co-opt this message and idea from markets. Remember to highlight the 50 year role farmers (and public) markets play in adding social benefits to the experience of family table shopping.
-interest in capturing the sometime shopper. Grocery’s share of loyal shoppers (only shopping that chain) is down to 1% of shoppers. As a result, grocery is thinking more about seasonal shoppers, first time shopper etc, and focusing on categories, focusing depth of products and operational excellence. For markets, it would be helpful to note that marketing.
Beyond seeking out analysis, it is also helpful to take some time to walk around retail space in your town or area. The culture of shopping can have a specific look and messaging which markets can adopt or can counter.
Do you see a lot of barren shopping spaces? Then make sure your entrances and mid spaces are lively and colorful.
Conversely, maybe there there a lot of high end, carefully-displayed tiny stores that may seem off-putting (if you have wealthy sections of town). If so, highlight the small family farm vibe and welcome booth of your market and how it is open to all.
And finally, walk your market at least once or twice a year with a retail eye. What would a customer see when they come in the main entrance or when you enter through one of those desire paths* between 2 vendors?
What type of product stands out in terms of display skills among your vendors?
Do you notice a boomerang effect of shoppers not making it all the way through the market?
This resource is the original I made for markets over 25 years ago, and even though I would love to make some new ones for market types, it still is effective to assign a volunteer or a friend to fill out.
I’ll add a few more posts on retailing your market in the coming months. Feel free to reach out to me at darwolnik at gmail if you have specific areas you are interested in, or ideas you want to share.
During the decade in which I was overseeing farmers markets, we had many hurricanes, the Katrina levee breaks, the BP Oil spill, lots of location changes, vendor changes (including a good number passing) and a crisis with our host organization that forced us to go out on our own as a 501 c3 after more than a decade as a university program. Our team grew more adept at weathering these changes, but we definitely had more staff turnover, less time for reflection and planning, and less resiliency financially and emotionally.
When I left to become a consultant at the national level and to support FMC, I was very sad to go but also relieved that I had made it through without breaking.
So I think of you, dear market operators, network leaders and anchor vendors, wondering about how you are faring with this never-ending set of civic breaks, panics, governmental snubs to local food systems, governmental overreach over farmers markets, lack of funding, obfuscation of the goals of farmers markets because of entities that use the name willy-nilly, brutal weather swings and so on.
Also I wonder about this because at Farmers Market Coalition we have made a conscious effort in the last few years to highlight the role of the market manager. We do that because it is one of the least understood things about markets and makes it hard to make the case for markets without the audience knowing the intentional nature and structure of the modern farmers market.
To that end, FMC has a communication plan with a goal of 1/3 of our comms output to focus on markets and their operators.
But I gotta say; its hard to do that, because so few of you share info about your work. The social media I see overwhelmingly paints a beautiful picture of market day, with all of the tents up and flags fluttering, vendors at the alert, ready to bag.
Which is great. It’s joyful and it’s inviting. I get it. I did it too. And we should continue those posts and updates.
But we are also a movement of over 9,000 sites, of many types and sizes, with shared stresses both internal and external. Many of you have huge system change goals for your 4-hour a week market, and work diligently over most days of the week to make them happen. A bit of that shared with your community can help them understand why the market remains outside in a vacant lot after many years, why there are rules against anyone just joining as a vendor, why your local municipality should be supportive, why funders who share the same goals should seek you out.
So once in a while, tell us how you are doing, amid your gorgeous pics of produce and smiling vendors. Talk about your staff and volunteers. Talk about your dreams for the market.
And if you have the urge, take a second and let me know how you are doing.
Many many thanks to Maine Federation of Farmers Markets for organizing Tuesday’s “Preparing for ICE Actions at Farmers Markets” webinar with Legal Food Hub at the Conservation Law Foundation. So very informative.
The presenters did not want the webinar recorded or the ppt shared so I am using my notes from the webinar below. I do not have any more information than this to share or any expertise to expand on these notes and am not an attorney so none of this information should be construed as legal advice.
So much of market management is about preparation and logistics which obviously is key to your market’s response to an ICE audit or raid.
As discussed in previous posts, for any crisis, focusing on de-escalation techniques are always helpful for the market management to be aware and trained on using.
Make sure you know the status of your market space (privately or publicly owned) and how even a privately owned space CAN be construed as public space see this section of the FM Legal Toolkit under Risks, Section II here.
Many important ideas were covered on the webinar, including knowing individual rights, know if your police force(s) are participating with ICE “287(g) agreements,” knowing your immigration status liability with independent contractors, collecting a list of sites in your state that offer assistance for immigrants to share with vendors and shoppers, knowing how to be a witness to any ICE actions that you are unable to stop,
-No warrant is required in public areas, meaning little to no restrictions on an enforcement action there
Current entities
• Department of Homeland Security
– U.S. Citizenship and Immigration Services (USCIS)
– U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP)
– U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE)
• Department of Justice
– Immigrant and Employee Rights (IER) Section
– Executive Office for Immigration Review (EOIR)
•Department of Labor
-PERM Labor Certification, H-2A, H-1B, etc. compliance
What should markets know?
– Public Space: no judicial warrant needed
– Do not interfere, hide or remove target individual (harboring)
Take proactive steps by:
– Ensuring employer compliance
– Not knowingly bringing unauthorized individual(s) to the market
– Partnering with local organizations regarding Know Your Rights (KYR)
– Partnering with local law enforcement to ensure a safe and inviting location
– Read and understand INA Sec. 287(g): https://www.ice.gov/identify-and-arrest/287g
Resources:
https://www.aclu.org/know-your-rights/immigrants-rights
https://www.ilrc.org/red-cards-tarjetas-rojas
PAIR Project: https://www.pairproject.org/
• RIAN Immigrant Center: https://www.riancenter.org/
• Refugee and Immigration Assistance Center (RIAC):
• American Immigration Lawyers Association: https://www.aila.org/
ALIEN REGISTRATION REQUIREMENT:
• A 1940 law, known as the Alien Registration Act, requires every foreign national, age 14 year or older who will be in the U.S. for 30 days or longer, must be registered and fingerprinted.
• Foreign nationals 18 years and older also required to carry proof of registration.
• Failure to carry proof of registration can result in a misdemeanor, including fines and/or imprisonment.
• Undocumented foreign nationals are required to register, but registering does not grant legal status and may result in detention and removal proceedings.
• Should consult with independent immigration counsel.
This is from FMC’s advocacy network NSAC. There is a link below to the entire toolkit to find templates, calls to action, and hashtags.
Our food system and farmers are under attack, and we won’t stand by as Congress and USDA dismantle the essential programs and resources that we all depend on. Amidst all of the chaos and uncertainty, we are working together to both protect farmers and people from further harm and win positive policy change that will build a better food system for all.
We have a shared vision of a world where farmers, workers, and communities sustain a thriving food and farm system that nourishes people, stewards our environment, and builds strong economies regardless of what the future brings.
Join us between Earth Day and President Trump’s 100th day in office to uplift the important advocacy efforts to safeguard and improve our nation’s food and farm system. Each day will have a different call to action, responding to a direct threat from the Executive Branch. We are calling on organizations to mobilize individuals in their network across the week of April 22-29.
Each day focuses on a different threat our movement is facing. You know your audience best, please choose which days you want to participate in based on your capacity and your network’s appetite for action. It is okay if you cannot leverage these materials this week, they will be available for us to you whenever.
In the last few months, we’ve seen brazen attacks on climate and environmental stewardship programs despite their clear benefits for farmers and communities.
The reality is that not only are farmers on the front lines of volatile weather events, they are also among the most significant stewards of our nation’s water, soil, and air quality. To ensure our ability to grow food into the future, we need to resource farmers with the knowledge and support they need to weather any storm. That’s why we support the introduction of the Agriculture Resilience Act (ARA) – a farmer-centered bill that incentivizes and supports the work family farmers are doing to build soil health, improve water quality, build robust and resilient businesses, and feed our communities.
This bill offers straightforward, incentive-based strategies for giving farmers the freedom to voluntarily improve the long-term health and resilience of their farms while supporting farmer livelihoods, and with enough support, it can become part of the farm bill. As lawmakers prepare to write the next farm bill, we need to make sure they are listening to farmers and advocating for their needs.
Rest of the week:
Wednesday, April 23rd – Restore Funding for Local Food Purchases
Thursday, April 24th – Comprehensive Disaster Assistance for Farmers
Friday, April 25th – Celebrate and Protect Federal Employees
Monday, April 28th – Hold Congress & USDA Accountable for Unlawful Action
Tuesday April 29th – Trump’s 100th Day in Office Congressional Briefing
A beloved neighborhood bakery in New Orleans posted a beautiful piece today on their experience trying to save their business as COVID became the reality for us all. (It’s Bywater Bakery; if you are ever in our city, do yourself a favor and check it out. And read Chaya’s beautiful piece on their FB page.)
It sent me down the same path of memory, although before I read that this morning, I did have to test for the virus once again. I heard from a friend who has miraculously escaped from contracting it over the previous years and finally got it last week, and after traveling 1200 miles across 6 states, I felt a little under the weather and decided to see if I was positive for the virus. This time, I was not, but like her, I also still expect my first positive test at some point….
I remember well the early news stories about the virus, especially as New Orleans had just had a huge Mardi Gras celebration even with the early reports of this virus. (One may remember that the federal response was not clear nor robust.) During MG, I had been on the streets with friends and strangers, but less than some others. That was partly because I had also been very sick with similar symptoms over the holidays, and a pal who was a nurse suggested during Carnival that maybe I was an early victim and asked me to test for it. Although negative, she warned me to be extra careful even in those early days and so I heeded her advice.
I was also extremely lucky to already have a remote job at FMC, and so was inside on my own a lot of the time.
So I spent loads of time on news sites from the beginning, and in reading markets updates and answering emails from leaders, and so I have a unique vantage point to the magnificent way that markets handled this crisis.
I will share that I remember that year mostly in a fog from exhaustion not only because (like so many of you) I worked every day until finally taking a day off in late November, but also because my elderly mother became gravely ill with an infection and had to be hospitalized for 3 months that summer. I’d rise early, attend to emails and FMC business, and then I’d head to her house to feed her cats and then to calls with doctors and caregivers and trying to unpack the medical tangle in conference with my sister who was a thousand miles away, and thankfully a master at deciphering medical and legal technical information. After that, I’d be back to the laptop to do more with markets and local leaders and national partners into late into the night.
I tell you that not to gain sympathy for what was a very typical situation thousands of families had to face, but to share the regular pride and jubilation I felt first thing and then at the end of the day on hearing how state associations and markets were winning the bureaucracy battles, how they made sure to include MORE vendors and MORE initiatives in their makeshift drive through, or one-way, or timed entry markets (remember those words??) and how I had an inkling as to how exhausted everyone was*.
But as a result of that incredible pivot (another word to remember!) during the worldwide emergency, markets gained a lot of respect and trust from some who may have only ever watched us with one eyebrow raised, or without any idea of why we showed up rain or shine, week in and week out.
FMC was asked to join a multi-year, multi sector USDA initiative to catalogue the innovation and challenges of this emergency response. I tell you all, that to a person, every leader congratulated us on how well U.S. markets responded, and noted their brilliant design changes and deep care to make sure that no one was left out. We accepted that on behalf of you all, and did our best to transmit it back to the thousands of leaders doing the actual work.
Here is the link to the hundreds of resources gathered and created to tell the story of local food systems response: https://lfscovid.localfoodeconomics.com/
This is important to remember not only because of this anniversary of COVID, but also because we find ourselves in another national crisis. This time, millions of dollars in funding promised or already underway has been withdrawn with little or no information as to why it is gone or if it will return. Farmers and sector leaders find themselves with costs incurred, promises made, and carefully made plans, now out on their own.
So just as before, I know market leaders will pivot, look for other sponsors or grants for their programs, rework their plans to make it without the promised funding, and ensure that week in and week out, the farmers and makers have a space to collect, share their talents, and make enough to come back another day. Coming back another day is a lot of the battle; the rest is how we treat ourselves and each other during all of the another days after that. I promise, just as during COVID, I’ll be here, doing my best to help but also being nourished by the community built by each of you and by all of you.
*As usual I want to firmly state how talk of “resilience” and resilient systems in that year or the next was very misguided. Resilience is later; what markets (and others did) did that year was pure survival, spending down every asset and bit of energy, hoping to refill it later on. Some were able to do that; others were not. Over the last 3 years, we saw and heard anecdotal reports of even greater staff turnover and many markets struggling to regain their pre-COVID energy. NOW is when to measure resiliency from that emergency; now is when you also note that the emergencies keep coming and formal responses are beginning to lessen, forcing individuals into permanent recovery mode.
Farmers markets will become even more important in this chaotic time; consider how to make sure they continue.
Market day should be the priority. That doesn’t mean your programs are not vital (they are!) but if the market doesn’t open none of those can happen.
Some suggestions:
Confirm that your market space will continue to be available. That may be an issue if you only have a handshake agreement with an entity that may not be understand all that the market provides or in some cases, you may just be finding out they may be in opposition to some of the things markets provide. So check, get a signed agreement for a few seasons in place and look for a possible back up spot if needed.
Ensure your budget is not completely tied to federal grant programs. Some folks think that because they get money from a city or a state that it means it will continue, but those monies may originate from federal grants. Check. And start to look for local and regional foundations that support democratic civic activities. Put the word out on social and with your email list that your market has programs that need funding partners. If you haven’t yet partnered with like minded businesses as sponsors, consider this. Tent Talk has LOTS of episodes on partners and fundraising locally.
Revisit your budget to reduce spending anywhere you can. Make sure that the market day budget (meaning the costs for staffing and hosting the actual space) is finalized and separately managed from any other initiative or program budget.
Talk to your vendors. Find out what they are planning, what they are worried about for 2025. So far, it does seem that food producers will be in great demand; encourage them to talk to you about opportunities they are approached about and if you can, help them sort through those. I wish I could tell all of you to not get angry with vendors who pull out of markets (esp at the last minute) but I know we are human and that their absence could be a problem for your market; still I can tell you it won’t help and will make others less likely to tell you if they are getting offers.
If you are approachable, respectful and open to listening to their needs you may see some decide to stay because of that, and if nothing else, by being a good listener, you may know earlier. And because…empathy goes both ways.
Talk to your shoppers. See above.
Do more than use social media; revamp the newsletter, have a simple website, put flyers up, design kitchen magnets with website and phone number, give dedicated shoppers materials to hand out.
Be visible at market.
At market, let’s stay away from shame and blame, and focus on connection and inclusion.
I sit in a toasty French Quarter apartment, having experienced the largest snowfall ever recorded in the city yesterday which is (unofficially) 9.5 inches in one day.
I know many of you see much higher accumulations in your area on a regular basis, but for little subtropical New Orleans, it was quite a day.
Of course because of my market work, I was thinking of our growers and producers out there, many of whom saw more snow just north and upriver of the city. The next market on Thursday will likely be called off (just as Tuesday was) with the snow turning to ice with temps not coming out of the 20s for a few days. That also means tarps and tunnels will not come off until Friday or Saturday when damages will be assessed and calculations from lost sales now a reality.
So many stories like this every season. The best we can do is to be their voice and tell our shoppers and partners to be patient, and to gently remind them of this event in a few weeks or so when they see lower amounts on the tables. In other words, our work is just beginning when the weather emergency is over.
Winter also means fewer markets and more conferences and meetings for growers and market operators. In most years, I attend 8-15 conferences for markets, although this year it will be only a few, between FMC’s staff furlough and projects that are not quite ready for dissemination.
Getting out is vital because sharing examples of replicable pilots and programs is the core work we (I) do. The longer I am away from actually managing markets and instead spending my time working to create, collect, and implement replicable resources by partnering with markets and academics, the more I see how to help markets build their operations sustainably can be a tricky business. I often talk about the 4 levels of competence with markets to illustrate how it is so difficult to move to the final stage which on the graph is called unconscious competence, but could also be called organizational competence. See an earlier post about it here:
https://darlenewolnik.com/2017/03/23/the-four-stages-of-market-management/
Winter is a perfect time to focus on organizational competence by attending to some of those long term projects that cannot be completed in the busy market months.
One version of this is a multi year project I am working on for NOFA-VT/VTFMA (doing this as my own consulting entity, Helping Markets Grow as this is not large enough for FMC-level work) around implementing the Legacy Folder that FMC, NOFA-VT and VLGS built out in the Farmers Market Legal Toolkit years back. The entire Legal Toolkit was a massive undertaking and we moved fast to create a significant number of resources with the grant funding we had, and then expected to work with state leaders to build implementation projects for each of the areas we had covered. That latter part has taken longer than expected (blame COVID, changes at each of our 3 organizations, more emerging risks needing to be covered in the Toolkit, state leaders’ priorities and so on) but now I find myself thinking more and more this year about how to help markets use this toolkit to implement organizational competence around risk management on market day. (And then after this one, on to an implementation plan for the 4-6 other toolkits FMC offers, see bulleted list below.)
The VT Legacy Folder* project is a perfect example of how it is difficult to move to organizational competence without a plan or without help. The NOFA-VT/VTFMA project is focusing on only this one resource, selecting a new cohort of market leaders each year, convening via Zoom over winter months. It has been rewarding to help markets collect their legacy documents, and think through how and where those are collected, stored, explained and shared. Even though it is focused on only this one resource, it helps market leaders also deal with their larger organizational weaknesses and strengths and also builds new networks around shared competencies. And even with this help, these hardworking market leaders struggle to get this done, often not completing everything they want to do to check off their Legacy Folder as done in one season.
I am hoping the next 4-5 years will offer lots more opportunity to provide direct support so we can help market leaders move from individual development to organizational competence in all of the areas we have tackled with major resources (all found on FMC’s still unwieldy website, either through links or housed on it directly:)
-Risk management
-Messaging
-Evaluation/Analysis
-Food Access
-Anti-Racism/System Change
-Disaster Recovery (still needs to be finished – any funders out there want to help FMC?)
-Appropriate Technology
(And maybe we have to build Human Resources Toolkit as the final one?)
So this is how I am digging deep over the winter. I hope to hear some of you have this work in your Winter Plan and have ideas as to how I can help and how FMC can as well.
*Legacy Binder was its pre-digital name which will be updated to Legacy Folder on the site soon
By the way, there will be a new case study on the development of this VT cohort published on the Legal Toolkit site later this winter. Check the Toolkit in the coming weeks or ask the VLGS (who manages the Toolkit) to let you know when it is up via the Toolkit’s contact page.
Oh the fires. It’s terrifying to watch them unfold especially viewing from videos taken with hand-held phones with calm narration from the very folks who are seeing their place burn up.
There has been natural (and unnatural) disasters in my own place more than once and so I have a bit of an out of body sensation watching those videos, having made a few myself. Soon will come the overwhelming finality of knowing how many beings have been lost, how many have lost home, how long it will take just to not see or smell the destruction. (I remember driving through Montpelier VT after their devastating flood not that long ago, smelling the musty items out on the curb to be tossed in the trash, and how the years-old Katrina memories came rushing back.)
Once the people are back, there will be a period of exuberance when they are able to stand there, to see each other, and to talk it out. That period lasts for a few months while more come back, while they clean out their places…Then it’s on to other phases, some less pleasant, all of which last years and are much longer lasting than the attention from media or even the kind questions from folks from other places.
I must confess that I only realized a few years back that I have yet to “land” anywhere since the loss of my place in 2005, and have come to see that I cannot seem to trust in the idea of a constant home yet. Instead, I do my best to make that home in many places, and to find small comforts that travel with me.
And yes since this is a blog for market communities, I gratefully include those markets as spaces where I feel less alone, less “on the road.” But its not just the market spaces; it’s also the community of market people who call or email or meet up with me to spend a few minutes or longer, recounting recent experiences or pulling out a shared memory to laugh or to mourn over or ask for my update, listening attentively while I do.
That is the real magic of this work we do: that we create comfort and belonging which doesn’t always live in a physical space, but is carried by a shared belief that showing up, by seeing people as more valuable than just the sum of their transactional history, by pushing against the cynicism of faster and cheaper as better, by looking people in the eye to ask how they are and waiting for an answer, by including everyone, we belong to the comforting.
Our friends in Los Angeles will need that, just as friends everywhere who have lost already have needed that.
That is a huge part of why the work we do is constantly vital even when the markets are closed and market leaders are back to their planning, and our producers are back on the land, and in their kitchens with their recipes and in their fields with their animals…
Sustained community. That’s the magic.
As many of you have heard, your national market support entity, Farmers Market Coalition, the organization that I have been attached to for the last decade as a staff person, and a half decade before that as a market leader supporting its development, is rethinking its role and structure.
Part of that rethinking means the elected board made a recent decision to put all staff on temporary furlough for at least January 2025, leaving just our Interim Director working to catch up on invoicing and administrative changes.
As painful as it can be to be open about the issues we are dealing with, FMC needs to do what we urge markets to do, which is to be transparent about development plans and challenges.
I have heard from enough markets and network partners that they believe FMC is essential to the field, and vow to be patient for its journey to find the right admin and funding structure, all of which make the idea of being laid off a little less awful.
Still, pulling off a rework is a HUGE task. I hope we can. I do think we can.
While I am off work at FMC, I am focusing on the Market Eras article and then prospectus for a book.
Here is also my Substack about that process:
Here is an earlier post about it:
https://darlenewolnik.com/2024/01/02/market-eras-part-1/
Expect to see more here about that and my own consulting for markets in the next few months but I promise to also share whatever FMC builds for its future when I am able to speak on its behalf again.
Finishing up 2024 work this weekend, to then preparation for supporting organizers amid the bookends of community and chaos in 2025.
But do not expect a deep dive in this post about what may happen in the national political arena around food and farming- at least not yet. Still time to consider plans, still time to replenish….
But in the meantime, here is what I have been saying in the past few months to market organizers that I am in contact with:
Leave blame and shame to other arenas.
Markets need to be centered as places of belonging and connection.

Focus on big goals of system change by asking the market organization to consider:
How is the market moving the dial on farmland preservation? How is that work measured?
How is the market including marginalized people of color in its work- and not just as consumers, but as producers, as advisors, as mentors?
What about rural (if the entity is overtly urban focused), or urban (if overtly rural)?
What would that add to your work and to your market?
Does your team and community know the history of subjugation and of centering whiteness in your area?
Does your team and community even know the recent history of market culture (1970-) in your area? Why these markets were founded? Who founded them? How is the market still honoring that history and still intentional in its design?
What external pressures are limiting your work, and who and what processes might help you change those?
What internal structures are limiting your work, and who and what new processes might help you change those?
How are you preparing for interruptions to farming or markets, whether through civic or climate instability?
What is the big idea for your market that you would like to tackle in 2025?
What keeps getting moved off the to-do list every year?
How can we include more people in our work lives, to bring new voices into the work, but also to make sure we are being held accountable and supported.
Can the urge to wait for “perfect” be ignored in favor of what is possible and practical?
I am already asking myself all of these.
How about you?
Hello leaders.
I’m out on my “summer tour” of the northeast part of the US leaving my beloved New Orleans simmering and hunkering down for hurricane season, one that is projected to be an extremely active one.
When I began to regularly (around 2009) to leave for weeks and then for the summer, I got a lot of raised eyebrows and jokes about it, but those have completely stopped in more recent years. My take on that is that all New Orleanians are now accepting of the fragility of our coast, and constantly preparing for interruptions that come with the loss of land and the rising temperatures of the Gulf. So now, leaving for a time is one of the new normals. No more friendly texts of “wimp” allowed.
What has also changed is the number of natural and civil interruptions happening in the other places that I visit.
In the areas that I was in just over the last series of months, we watched the Vermont and Kentucky floods, the Canadian wildfires, and many other localized disasters that elicited organizing from one or more market organizations.
That organizing was rarely to raise money or awareness for the market entity, but rather, focused on their role as conveners (using their site for recovery), as analysts of the local/regional food system for media or policy makers, and/or as pass-through entities to get resources to their vendors.
The very nature of open-air markets allowed these varied and immediate responses, since most are without infrastructure and therefore have no physical damage to their own organizational assets. I say that with consideration, because many had to move their location for a few months or even longer, which requires design and logistical planning, work even longer hours than before, and pay for new marketing and messaging to let everyone know what and where the new version was happening.
And for the markets that provide centralized payment processing, the damage to shopper or vendor homes and/or businesses can often mean more and higher average transactions because of increased government benefits and private philanthropy, which in turn – although very welcome – increases the costs of managing such a system, and does not come with appropriate administrative funding increases. (In fact, it seems appropriate to mention here that for most market organizations, ANY significant increased use of their centralized system does not increase their income at the same level, if at all. That is the opposite for brick and mortar stores since those entities own the items they are selling and more items sold mean more profit for the store.)
I point this all out because I have been in the position many times to hear funders and policymakers slide right past markets when discussing how to invest in regional food systems that have suffered losses or interruptions. It also raises a red flag when we use the word resiliency to congratulate those who make it through the recovery phase, even though there are a few other phases before and after.
After the 2005 Katrina Levee Breaks, we had artists sew some of these words into prayer flags for us: Return/Reconnect/Recovery/Reopen/Renew/Rebuild/Rejoice/Rest. What those of us in the Gulf Coast mix since 2005 know now is that resilience comes after all of those if it comes at all.
Recovery does not describe resiliency as one cannot “bounce back” while still in the emergency. Instead, during recovery, we watch markets and other local entities “spend down” their social, intellectual, economic savings, but almost always see the attention moving on when true resiliency should have been measured – meaning long after, and no ‘R” savings account replenishment offered.
As another example, during the COVID crisis, the word resilient was used for direct to consumer outlets opening during the restrictions and although that part WAS incredibly difficult, little research was done on the larger-than-normal turnover of market staff that by state and network leaders noted after the restrictions lifted and markets were allowed to return to previous operational structures.
Resiliency also does not take into account how institutional power brokers use the moment of an emergency to shift the burden of future emergencies away from the formal civic sector and on to informal and individual recovery efforts. Of course, local community leaders should always have a leadership role in recovery but they shouldn’t be expected to raise the majority of the funds, or to be the only local response visible to their neighbors, yet in multiple emergencies, this is increasingly typical. (How many local GoFundMe campaigns, can or clothing drives, and or free 24/7 power/charge stations are managed by corporations?)
During the early days of recovery, a local activist in New Orleans famously refused the word:

So is it even possible to rescue the word to be meaningful to local activists and grassroots organizations, or is it (as Ms. Washington says in the poster above) a word one does not want applied?
How should market communities partner with the formal sector without ceding any local power?
And as importantly, how do we prepare for the injustices likely to be raining down on our communities because of civic and natural emergencies even as we take care of our own health and well-being?

Highly recommend the educational resources supplied by the Pulitzer Center in association with The 1619 Project. If we want to lead a new system of farming through our work, we need to envelop these experiences and lessons into our governance and business models.
When Charisse was hired as FMC’s E.D. earlier this year, I was intrigued both by her background and her plan to take that big job on, AND to continue to oversee her wildly successful company Lokal Artisan Foods with its French Toast Bites brand. As someone who had also alternated between for-profit entrepreneurial work and community organizing, I was very excited to experience this type of energy from our new leader.
And what energy it was. Charisse never seemed to meet a situation in which she didn’t have the confidence to address, never lacked a joke or self deprecating aside to lessen any awkwardness, and always made sure that folks felt seen and heard, richly using their names and building a special communication with each person. I marveled at all of it. I told her so and hope that I told her so in a way that she accepted it.
She was a constant learner, which I knew had made already her kin among our market leaders, since that is the energy they also bring. I often told her that market managers were gonna love having someone like her in this role and I felt she knew exactly what I meant. Of course one of her first public outputs as our E.D. was establishing a new vendor fund because she had lived that concern, both as a PA market manager and as an entrepreneur.
I was grateful to see how much time she spent on the World FMC Academy calls, attending almost all of them (choosing the early am option of the 2 they offer, in order to make time for them before her long work day started), listening in and sending me dozens of questions and comments during and after those calls.
She jokingly reminded the FMC team on almost every call how recently she had arrived, sharing what day number she was on as FMC’s ED. (She began on June 20, so she was with us for one week shy of 7 months.)
I was humbled by her willingness to use her energy, her enormous social capital, and intellectual bank to assist FMC. To lead an overwhelmingly white staff and white culture to its hoped for future as a leader in the new anti-racist, entrepreneurial, and joyous food system for which farmers markets should lead.
I met her in person only twice, as it was normal for our staff to only meet up once or twice a year in our little remote-officed NGO with staff working at home from coast to coast to coast across the US. I was happy that our East Coast Deputy Director Willa had more face time with Charisse, as did our Philly-based admin/membership person, Meghan. It was great seeing that team begin to form. I was sorry for those staff who never had the pleasure to meet her in person.
I looked forward to seeing her much more in person in 2024.
I’m stunned at this loss.
Not only for FMC, but for her own community and family, and the loss of such promise.
I’m also angry with our world for not taking better care of black and brown (especially female) leaders. I take that indictment as my own future work as well, and promise to do better to support and honor these women.
Here’s to you, Charisse McGill. Rest In POWER.
